Thanks to our Columbus chef friends from Wario’s Beef & Pork and Black Cap Hot Sauce, we’ve had Cordelia in downtown Cleveland on our radar since it opened in 2022. Now, on a quick overnight trip to the city, we had the opportunity to visit them for Sunday brunch! And, boy, did it knock our socks off.
Cordelia sits on that well-known stretch of East Fourth Street, home to House of Blues, Michael Symon’s Mabel’s BBQ, and other spots (RIP Greenhouse Tavern). Cordelia itself is where Symon’s bygone Lola’s Kitchen used to be.
It’s a big, open space with a big bar, photos on the wall, an open kitchen, and wallpaper that might remind you of your grandma’s house. Which is totally fitting given Cordelia’s tagline of being “Midwest Nice,” and the inspiration it draws from its namesake, chef Vinnie Cimino’s great-grandmother.
I started with a lovely shot of espresso to get things going. They also offer a full bar, although we were in more caffeine mode than boozy brunch mode.
The top section of the menu is designed Party Snacks / Relish Trays, with a mix of small, shareable dishes. We ordered a trio of jammy eggs, farmers cheese with toasted bread, and pimento cheese with crackers.
Each one was a little taste of comfort food, beautifully seasoned and very crave-able.
We also ordered a side of jojos, or fried wedge potatoes, if you didn’t grow up in a part of the country that called them that.
I’m always, always drawn to Dutch babies on a menu (because it’s one of my favorite dishes to cook). Cordelia features a sweet and a savory Dutch baby; the seasonal sweet flavor was peaches and cream, seasoned with sumac and sage. They also featured a cheesesteak Dutch baby, using shaved ribeye from Wario’s.
One of our boys ordered the “leftovers” – cold fried chicken with chili oil and pickled vegetables.
It’s a nod to a classic summer dish, and even though it was served cold, the breading was still wonderfully crispy.
The Dimmy Jeans features jojos smothered with an excellent, chunky pork gravy, topped with a pair of sunny side up eggs.
And you really can’t miss the McBarrett, a knife-and-fork breakfast sandwich consisting of cheesy eggs, smashed sausage, and a rich maple mayo between crispy slices of “France toast.”
It’s delightfully over-the-top. Highly recommended.
Keep in mind that Cordelia adjusts its menu seasonally, so you’ll see dishes come and go. But if this late summer edition is any indication, you’re in for a stellar experience no matter when you visit.
I loved the walls covered in photos of notable Cleveland natives and other celebs.
My personal favorite, spied downstairs, was Bill Watterson, creator of Calvin & Hobbes. He grew up in Chagrin Falls nearby, and reportedly lives in Cleveland Heights now.
Cordelia is open for dinner Tuesday-Saturday from 4-10 p.m., and for Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Cordelia
2058 E. Fourth St.
Cleveland, OH 44115
(216) 230-2355
Web: cordeliacle.com
FB: Cordelia
IG: @cordeliacle
